Suu's Thread-Jack

[Suu]

Btw, this is the exact formula pattern I used:

http://www.zilltech.com/FAQCostumeHP.html

[Darth Cupcake]

Nice! Thank you!!

[Suu]

It seriously takes about 20 mins. Tops. The longest part is making the pattern and finding paper large enough to draw it on. I happen to have an 18x24 sketch pad that I use, but newsprint and posterboard do the trick as well.

[Suu]

Hay Ladays! Wanna make yer own skirt?



I have yet to hit the streets in this obnoxious garment and NOT get complements. Probably because of it's crazy Star Wars print, but overall it's a VERY easy pattern and a VERY easy and cost effective way to expand your warm weather wardrobe. Depending on what fabrics you choose, it can easily be business casual or even business professional!

This type of skirt is very full, and is described as a 3/4 circle skirt. I picked up this when trying to figure out how to make an easy skirt for Gothic Lolita wear, as it's full enough to go over a crinoline:



All it takes is various embellishments.

So let's start!



Measurements:

a-b: waist to knee; square up
a-c: 5cm (2"); square across
c-d: 1/2 waist
b-e: 1/2 hip + 10cm (4"); square up
d-f: waist to knee

Draw lines at right angles to d-f at either end and use these as a guide to the curves. Note all the right angles as these are important.

g-h shows a typical place to throw some trim on a lolita skirt. b-g and f-h are 1/5th waist to knee.

Mark your pattern with the symbols show. The straight double-headed arrow <-----> is the direction the piece is to be placed on the fabric and should be parallel to a-b. You do this so that the grain of the fabric remains the same. The other one that looks like

-->
|
|
-->

means that's the part where the pattern will be placed on the fold of the fabric. Remember after you cut this sucker to write what it is on it, and note "cut 2 on fold",  it will make your life easier when you look at it a few months down the road and go, "WTF is this paper thingy?"

To make a waistband:

Measure the curve a-d. Multiply by 4 to get the length. The depth should be twice that of your elastic.

Seam allowances:

Add 5/8" (1.5cm) to the side seam and 3/8" (1cm) to the waistline. If you are adding lace or other trim to the hem, only 3/8th is needed, otherwise add at least 2" and remember it's a curved hem and WILL be a pain. The waistband should have 3/8" on the long edges and 5/8" at the ends.

Remember that a-b can be any length you want, but fuck around accordingly to make sure that it fits properly over a crinoline. The Star Wars skirt I made turned out to be too long for the potential lolita project it was going to be, hence why I just wear it as is. The trim I have on that is black blanket binding and added close to 2".

Cutting layout:



That is how you will want to place your pattern on the fabric. The waistband will probably be cut in half as well. I make my patterns out of 18"x24" sketchbook paper, but newspaper works just as well.

I would estimate about 2-3 yards of fabric, though you probably won't need that much. Just remember you have to cut it in the direction of the design or grain of the fabric, which CAN make a difference in the yardage you will use. Also think about lining if necessary. (I will not describe how to line in this post.) If anything, use the leftover fabric as window treatments, capes for your pets, or making a bag. I made a long bag for my Master Replicas lightsaber for transportation to and from events.

Once cut, you sew together the side seams, wrong side out. Then sew one side of the waistband down to the top, fold it over, and stitch down the other side by folding it over and creating a finished hem and a casing for the elastic. Attach a large safety pin to one end of the elastic and run it through the casing. Once through, stitch the ends together and sew the casing opening shut.

Hem the bottom of the skirt and trim to taste. And you're done! Estimated project time: 1-2 hours. Tops.

Tips:

If you don't know how to hem, there are a variety of different methods, I would fold the fabric over twice to hide the unfinished fabric edges, or, if you have access to a surger/overlock machine, you can use that. I don't, so I have to roll all of my edges.

Finish all seams with a zigzag stitch after the running stitch to help deter fraying as well. Or you can French seam, which I will probably demonstrate in another post because it's WONDERFUL for nicely finished projects if you don't have a serger.

Yes, you can handsew all of this, but you can also buy a decent sewing machine at Wal-Mart for 50 bucks. Do yourself a favor and invest in one, because you'll use it more often than you think.

Questions? Comments? Concerns?

Oh, and the men's ensemble is completely done. As soon as I can get my friend down here for pics I'll snap them and post them.

[LMNO]

Comment:  I'm not sure how you're holding your body in that top pic, but it completely misrepresents you as can be seen in the subsequent pics.

[Suu]

It's called "sucking it in".

[Bebek Sincap Ratatosk]

Ahh, one of the few hotties in the SCA apparently.... 

[Suu]

Ahh, one of the few hotties in the SCA apparently.... 

I'm actually planning my next post to be Late Roman and Byzantine garb, so stay tuned for actual SCA accurate phun.

[Darth Cupcake]

This is fantastic! Thank you, Suu! Now I have yet more ways to pass my unemployment...

[Suu]

This is fantastic! Thank you, Suu! Now I have yet more ways to pass my unemployment...

With me and my sewing machine, I can see.

[Sir Squid Diddimus]

I love to sew. I used to have a complete wardrobe full o shit that I made. I haven't touched my sewing machine since.... well, way too long.
Last things I made were a squid shirt and some mario curtains for the boy's room.

[Suu]

Next costume for myself on the list:

[Suu]

The pattern below is traditionally called a T-Tunic for us reenacting types. I just modified it for my Royal Guard underrobes. The length can be adjusted as per your Medieval or Star Wars needs...

--

The first measurement you'll need is from the bump at the base of your skull down to the floor.  Run the measuring tape close to your body so you take into consideration all the curves.  Add three inches to this number and call it "A". 

Now measure around the largest part of your chest.  Add four inches to this measurement.  Divide by two and call it "C".  This is the length and width (respectively) of your front and back pieces. 

Find your waist.  This is the narrowest part of your torso, regardless of where you wear your pants these days.  Measure from your waist to the floor and add three inches.  This will be the length of your gores.  Call it "E".

Measure from the point of your shoulder around your bent elbow to your wrist.  Call that measurement "B". 

Measure around the largest part of your arm and add a few inches.   This will be your sleeve width.   Call that measurement "D".   

Now lay out your fabric and mark it with your measurements as seen below.  Cut out the pieces as indicated.  Cut two 6" x 6" squares for your gussets.

Here is my cut on a 3 yd piece of 64" cotton velour:


Enhanced ala Photoshop:


You will have to adjust accordingly depending on the width of your fabric. Velour and velvet don't normally come in 64" widths, I got VERY lucky and found this at a local fabric store that is going out of business for 55% off, and actually, I wouldn't recommend the stuff. It stretches and rolls something fierce and was a overall pain to work with, ESPECIALLY hemming.

Now, sew the front to the back along the top of the rectangles.  This is your shoulder seam. If you're lucky to get a stretch fabric, you may be able to get away with a slit for a neckhole like I did. If not, you may want to cut a semi-circle out of your front piece first for your head to fit through. My shoulder seams were 7" from the outside edges.

  Fold the sleeves in half width-wise. Line this fold up with the shoulder seam and sew that side to the garment on either side.  Sew the top of the gussets to the underside of each sleeve.  Sew one side of each gusset to the front body piece.

Attach two gores to the sides of the front body piece. Your garment should now look like the picture below (I have 3 light sources in the room, so it shows off the different pieces on the velour pile).



Now, you should have cut a total of 4 gores, 3 whole and one split. Sew the split gore together and set it aside with the other one in case you need it. I'll get to that later.

Fold the garment in half along the shoulder seams.  Fold the underarm gussets in half diagonally and sew the remaining sides to the bottom of the sleeve and the side of the back body piece, respectively.

Sew the bottom of the sleeves closed.  Sew the unsewn edge of the side gores to the back body piece on either side.  Sew the front to the back body piece under the gussets (if necessary).

Put it on. Can you walk alright? If not remember those two gores? Put an E-length slit up the front and back pieces from the bottom and insert those extra pieces. It may look more like an A-Line dress now, but at least you can MOVE.

Trim, hem, and tweak as desired.

For the sash I simply took the corner of the fabric that was uncut with the initial pattern, trimmed it, folded it in half inside-out and sewed the long side and one short side closed, like making a pillowcase. I turned it right side out, trimmed it to fit my body with a little overlap, and then sewed the open side shut. I attached hooks and eyes to keep it on, and VOILA!

I do apologize, my dressform is a bit dilapidated, but you can see how clingy and stretchy the velour I used is. Good for a woman, but probably not so sexy on a man.



Detail of the gusset in the sleeve. You may not think you need it, but it will make a HUGE difference after you've been in costume for a few hours.

I hope this helps a lot of people. It will save you the hassle and money of finding a commercial pattern and it's also a great beginner's project to a sewing machine.

[Cramulus]

mittans!

HAY SUU CAN YOU POST A PATTERN FOR A COCKWRAP?

[Bebek Sincap Ratatosk]

mittans!

HAY SUU CAN YOU POST A PATTERN FOR A COCKWRAP?

http://www.lynnmcmasters.com/sturecodpiece.html